Leslie SuperTyfon horns are one of two styles - either they are the round-back (or dome-back/S-style), or they are the newer spike-back (or RS-style). The round-back SuperTyfons are the same internally as the tab-back SuperTyfons, as well as all Prime horns, and so the same instructions apply to all. (From here out, I will not be mentioning Prime, but the same instructions as those for the round-back Leslies do apply.) Spike-back horns do differ somewhat, though. The round-backs use a two-piece diaphragm - a ring and a disk - which sits on top of a spreader plate riveted into the back cap. The spike-backs instead use a single diaphragm disk with an outer silicone edge which sits flat in the back cap. The respective power chambers are also slightly different to accommodate the different back caps and diaphragm configurations.

One feature which separates the SuperTyfon apart from other horns is the design of the power chamber, both S and RS style. The chamber is designed so that there is roughly equal pressure on both sides of the diaphragm. The entire chamber is sealed, except for a small hole in the diaphragm which acts as a valve to the back side of the diaphragm. Therefore, the restoring force of the diaphragm isn't the elasticity of the diaphragm itself, such as found on other horns, but rather the same air pressure that causes the diaphragm to move in the first place. It is because of this that a SuperTyfon has a much greater operating pressure range than other horns, and with a much smaller and thinner diaphragm! The RS style improves on the S style in that the single diaphragm is less prone to fouling. The spike aids in this as well, allowing a stronger restoring force for the diaphragm.

Another unique feature of SuperTyfon horns is that they can easily be set up with either variable or fixed orifices to each bell. Through the use of an orifice dowel (attached to the bell), air is metered into the power chamber from the manifold. The larger the hole on the dowel, which is replaceable, the more air is fed to the attached chamber. This allows better balancing of the high and low tones, if desired.

To assemble a SuperTyfon, first assemble the power chamber. In an S head, the diaphragms are inserted into the back cap disk first, then the ring. Next, secure the screws holding the diaphragms in place. In an RS head, the diaphragm just sits in the back cap - it will only fit one way because of the silicone outer ring. With the diaphragm inserted, bolt the cap onto the rest of the power chamber.

Next, if you are working with an RS chamber, insert a gasket into the side of the chamber that will meet with the bell. Then, for all horns, take the bell and insert it into the manifold, placing a base gasket between the bell and manifold. Bolt the power chamber onto the other side of the manifold, again placing a base gasket between the power chamber and manifold. Repeat these steps for each bell, and the horn is assembled.

tips

SuperTyfons can be a lot more troublesome of a horn than most. Since the power chamber is where the sound is generated, the basic tips for fixing a horn will deal mainly with the power chamber and its parts, and not the manifold or bells. My first recommendation for these chambers is that if you have a good power chamber, don't open it. These horns are very sensitive, and even if you put the horn back EXACTLY as you found it, it still may not work if it is not to factory specs.

If you do open your chamber, and are working with an RS-style chamber, I recommend soaking the chamber in warm water for a few hours first. This will help prevent the silicone ring on the diaphragm from tearing. Once open, the first thing to do is examine the "head" (not the back cap), whether it be S- or RS-style. If the nozzle (inner rim) is uneven or has divots in it, it will most likely need to be remachined or replaced; there must be a smooth, level surface on the nozzle for the chamber to work properly. Also, the nozzle surface should not be in the same plane as the cushion ring! The plane of the nozzle should be close to 0.015" raised from the plane of the cushion ring (0.015" is factory spec). Any less, and the power chamber may not sound properly if at all. The reason for this is that the raised nozzle puts a specific preload on the diaphragm needed to form the seal inside the chamber. This seal is necessary to start the diaphragm oscillating. Too large a preload, and the diaphragm will be pushed backwards too far and the chamber will just hiss air. Too little preload, and the diaphragm will oscillate too fast and the chamber will squeal, or it will again just hiss air. Remachining the power chamber is a very delicate procedure, and best left to the professionals unless you know exactly what you are doing. See my other resources page for others who are experienced at remachining Leslie power chambers. But before remachining, it's best to try the other suggestions below.

On an RS-style power chamber, there is also a diffuser plate below the nozzle to examine, since it's possible for this diffuser to work itself loose. If this happens, sometimes the tabs holding it in place can be bent to "grip" the diffuser again. If this doesn't work, a couple drops of JB Weld usually do the trick! I've had a few people tell me they just remove loose diffusers if they find any, though I prefer to fix them. While it may not be necessary on all chambers, the diffuser does help the chamber sound properly by more evenly distributing the air around the nozzle. The choice is up to you.

Next, the back cap. In an RS-style cap, there isn't really any need to remove the diaphragm if it isn't loose already - it can be cleaned in-place. Removing it only increases the chances that the silicone ring will tear. However, on an S-style cap, this doesn't apply since there is no silicone ring. Before doing anything, make a small scribe on the diaphragms so you know exactly how they come out. Then, take a flat-head screwdriver and remove one of the screws holding the diaphragms in place. Some of the newer S caps have one screw and two rivets that hold the diaphragm in place instead of three screws. Under the diaphragm on an S-style power chamber is another disk - the spreader plate - riveted to the back cap. The rivet should be tight and the disk concave. If the rivet is loose, it will need to get drilled out and replaced.

You can now clean the diaphragm pieces, chamber, and back cap. If an RS-style diaphragm has a small tear, it can usually be saved. Just apply some silicone rubber to the tear (which can be found in most parts stores). If there is a large tear, the diaphragm will most likely need to be replaced. When finished, put the power chamber back together exactly as you found it. Once together, you can test using and an airgun. Just put the airgun nozzle into the air inlet on the power chamber and blow. You should get a high-pitched squeal that doesn't waiver or change pitch. Make sure you wear ear protection!

If you don't get a sound, or you get a gurgle or squeal, then you have more work to do. Here are a few suggestions I've received. For S-style chambers, first try flipping the diaphragm disk and reassemble. If this doesn't help, flip the ring next, then the disk again. Choose the configuration that gets the best sound if any. Another idea that has worked well for me is to rotate the diaphragm disk so that the relief holes are on the opposite side of the chamber as the air inlet to the chamber. NOTE - This also works well for RS-style diaphragms! If all else fails, try replacing the diaphragms with a different set.

If your chamber still isn't sounding, you can narrow the problem further if you have a good chamber to work with. Try putting the back cap of the good chamber on the problem chamber. If it works, then you have either a bad diaphragm or a bad back cap. If it doesn't work, then you most likely have a bad head. Either it will need to be replaced or remachined.

Best of luck with your horn! Leslies can be a real pain to work on, but they are also one of the most rewarding horns once you get them working the way you want. And, because each horn wears differently, each horn will have its own "personality" to it, leaving you with a unique horn!